From Phil Brillinger
Types of chains and chain maintenance.
Lots of talk about what type of chains are best and what lubes to use and how to maintain them.
Here are my thoughts based on over 50 years of riding racing and motorcycles mechanics.
Most of chain wear is actually chain stretch do the the pulling forces applied by the torque of the engine. There is no way to stop it but a well adjusted sealed chain will last up to 10k miles.
If you dont keep it adjusted the whipping affect from excess chain slack will put additional stress on the chain links causing premature wear of the chain link pins and sprocket teeth.
Right now there are 4 basic chain types, non o ring, o ring, x ring and the new z ring made by Regina and marketed by BMW.
All of the last 3 seal in grease applied to the pins during manufacturing.
The o ring has the most contact surface resistance on the plates when they are pressed together, x ring less and z ring the least, which means the chain moves more or less freely, but not as freely as a non o ring chain.
Most factory racers run non o ring because resistance robs small amounts of power.
For us desert guys and especially if your footing the parts bills, we run a o ring chain type because the sand wears the pins faster if not sealed out.
The best value out there right now is the Primary Drive Gold X Ring chain by Rocky Mountain ATV/ MC. Thier sprocket sets are good quality as well.
The gold color plating acts as a corrosion inhibitor and there really is no real maintenance needed.
As far as maintenance, on an o ring chain all your doing is keeping corrosion away and the o , x, z rubber seals from drying out and cracking.
Each chain link has a floating dowel covering each pin, ot makes contact with the sprockets and rotates slightly.
Its just there as a buffer between the sprocket and inner pin that the force is being applied to.I have never never seen one wear out or break before the chain reaches its wear/ stretch limit.
( Discussed on a prior tech tip)
I recommend clear chain wax like Maxima, it is a good product and not expensive. It does not attract dirt or look messy all over your wheels and swing arm etc.
Do not use oil or anything that stays wet, it will hold and attract dirt.
Intervals of cleaning and lubing depend on riding conditions.
Wet conditions obviously will remove the coating faster.
I would say at least every time you wash your bike.
A tool called a grunge brush works well to clean the chain.
You could use WD-40 as a pre lube after washing because it displaces moisture, but it doesnt provide long lasting protection in extreme conditions like chain lube does.
So there you go.
Have a great Tuesday everyone.
Types of chains and chain maintenance.
Lots of talk about what type of chains are best and what lubes to use and how to maintain them.
Here are my thoughts based on over 50 years of riding racing and motorcycles mechanics.
Most of chain wear is actually chain stretch do the the pulling forces applied by the torque of the engine. There is no way to stop it but a well adjusted sealed chain will last up to 10k miles.
If you dont keep it adjusted the whipping affect from excess chain slack will put additional stress on the chain links causing premature wear of the chain link pins and sprocket teeth.
Right now there are 4 basic chain types, non o ring, o ring, x ring and the new z ring made by Regina and marketed by BMW.
All of the last 3 seal in grease applied to the pins during manufacturing.
The o ring has the most contact surface resistance on the plates when they are pressed together, x ring less and z ring the least, which means the chain moves more or less freely, but not as freely as a non o ring chain.
Most factory racers run non o ring because resistance robs small amounts of power.
For us desert guys and especially if your footing the parts bills, we run a o ring chain type because the sand wears the pins faster if not sealed out.
The best value out there right now is the Primary Drive Gold X Ring chain by Rocky Mountain ATV/ MC. Thier sprocket sets are good quality as well.
The gold color plating acts as a corrosion inhibitor and there really is no real maintenance needed.
As far as maintenance, on an o ring chain all your doing is keeping corrosion away and the o , x, z rubber seals from drying out and cracking.
Each chain link has a floating dowel covering each pin, ot makes contact with the sprockets and rotates slightly.
Its just there as a buffer between the sprocket and inner pin that the force is being applied to.I have never never seen one wear out or break before the chain reaches its wear/ stretch limit.
( Discussed on a prior tech tip)
I recommend clear chain wax like Maxima, it is a good product and not expensive. It does not attract dirt or look messy all over your wheels and swing arm etc.
Do not use oil or anything that stays wet, it will hold and attract dirt.
Intervals of cleaning and lubing depend on riding conditions.
Wet conditions obviously will remove the coating faster.
I would say at least every time you wash your bike.
A tool called a grunge brush works well to clean the chain.
You could use WD-40 as a pre lube after washing because it displaces moisture, but it doesnt provide long lasting protection in extreme conditions like chain lube does.
So there you go.
Have a great Tuesday everyone.
